The Cotswold’s Way – Ultra Marathon

I’m no endurance athlete – I can hardly run more than 3 miles without some part of my body breaking, pinging, snapping or seizing.  In fact, I’ve never participated in any sort of organised running activity, a fun run in a park, a 5k a 10k, anything.  So, of course, the logical thing to do was to jump in the deep end and participate in an Ultra Marathon – a 100km walk/run.

Having moved recently to the Cotswolds area I heard, through one of the school mums,  about the Cotswold’s Way Challenge (https://www.cotswoldwaychallenge.com/).  I thought this was a great opportunity to see the local countryside.  

I started the process believing I could run the 100km between Bath and Cheltenham.  But after numerous and continuous injuries – I was forced to approach this as a walk.  Turns out, even this, is not a little amble through the lovely countryside either!  In that regards – naivety is a good thing – setting out blindly into the challenge benefited me.   If I had started to consider all the variables, from time needed to train, to improving fitness, I’m not sure I’d have started.

Nearing the event, after numerous injuries, I almost gave up but, after hearing the tragic news that an old University (rugby) friend had committed suicide I thought I’d support MIND – the Mental Health Charity.  This moment gave me focus and impetus and, as the support money came in, it helped with the energy needed to work towards the goal.

It also helped me take stock and enjoy the experience.  Certainly sobering to hear such awful news and, with walking, I was able to use the time training as time to reflect, listen to music I’d not listened to for years, listen to podcasts, audio books, nothing.  I started to love training – taking in the wonderful countryside, soaking up the views and finding my own little mindfulness.

I felt prepared going into the challenge – “Taxi for Hills!” my team was set and I had decided I would split the race up into 50km first day and 50km second day.  I’d not done back-to-back big walks but I felt confident I shouldn’t be too sore after completing my first marathon length walk two weeks before and feeling ok.

The Cotswold’s Way Walk

It all went in a blur really – I was very nervous.

I met my team mate in Bath at 7am – we both had an 8am start – he was going to run it – and attempt 100km in one day.

The news of over 30 degrees heat, however, was a little worrying – it was going to be a scorcher.  The buzz at the start was great – most participants had amazing stories, reasons to be involved – many carried those stories on their backpacks – it was very inspiring.

We set off at 8am and we climbed away from Bath until we were looking down on the city and entering the Cotswolds themselves.  At the beginning it’s hard to find your pace with the amount of people in a group and in the first kilometre I rolled my ankle – a recurring injury I did when doing a training walk in Turkey.  It didn’t seem to impact me so I pushed on stopping at the first organised stop – Bath racecourse some 8km out from the start.

The ankle felt good and my pace was good – the temperature was growing so I refilled my empty camel pack and headed out, with high spirits, into the beautiful countryside.  I went through 2 litres of water in the next hour and was then fighting against this for the next 8 or 9km.  I’d also tried to arrange a podcast during this period – and, although it didn’t work, it gave me time to speak to Sally from the office.   I was also kept company by my daughter Caitlin – who would whatsapp me during the weekend – these little moments really helped drive me on.

I reached the half way point of the first day and I was very dehydrated.  I took on a lot of water and refilled again – stopping for around 20 minutes to shade myself and cool down.  I had started to pull away from the walkers and started to overtake a lot of the runners – who many, by now, had hit some walls.  I found myself alone for the majority of the rest of the day – the searing heat over lunch was hard – the heat bouncing up off the fields making you feel like you were in an oven.  But thanks to locals offering hose downs, cold sponges and extra water I pushed on.  Completing the first day in just shy of 9 hours.

My team mate, Alex, wasn’t so lucky.  He showed signs of heat stroke, getting lost off the path and just after the 50Km point told me he’d run out of water.  The knock on effect was that he had to stop shortly after 60km.

I was lucky enough to be able to go home in the evening – being close – and was able to paddle in a friends paddling pool and Tess was keen I have a few beers.  I didn’t realise you could track your performance and Tess told me that, within my group (those running or walking 100km over two days) I was actually in 9th position!!!  I couldn’t believe it – I think the heat took it’s toll but I also felt I could push on now – Sunday was going to be cooler.  I don’t think they were too impressed with me lancing my blisters during the evening mind you.   But I was focused!!!

Day 2 I set off at 7am or so – after getting my feet professionally lanced and protected.  I immediately got into a good walking speed and was being held up less by people.

I found myself being immersed into my books and plays.  I’d finished Glengary Glen Ross and moved onto one of my favourite books – All the Pretty Horses by Cormac McCarthy and, although the scene he set was in the prairies of West Texas and Mexico, you could almost imagine yourself in the Mexican plains as the heat bounced off the floor.  I walked through miles of beautiful forests, long fields and some small Cotswold’s villages.

Bouncing my way along now – full of energy I didn’t stop to eat – just refilled water and continued.  The hills on the second day were brutal in some places but I found myself over taking people and even running parts of the course.  At the final water stop (7km away) I knew I was going to complete the challenge – and, in true form, became a little emotional with the situation.  Somewhat delirious I remember talking to llamas and singing songs to myself and full volume.

At 99km – as I approached Cheltenham through a park I felt my right foot’s blisters burst.  A warmth of water filling my shoes and then, at each step, the shift of skin as it moved around my shoe.  Hobbling a little I pushed on – then, pretty soon after, the burst of my blisters in my left shoe.   Being so close – I took my shoes off and pushed on.  I felt sorry now for those who were obviously distressed with blisters earlier – it wasn’t nice.

I arrived to meet my sister and Alex waiting for me – it was a great sight – well, they were holding a beer for me!  In the end I managed to come 4th in the race – which was surprising for a walker and, more importantly raise almost £2500 for charity.

 

 

Cote D’Ivoire June 2015

More storms and walking the streets…. (chapter 2)

From Ghana I flew out to Abidjan. I was starting to worry we may be delayed because it was starting to look stormy again. I saw on the news that the subsequent storm that hit Accra was so fierce that 200 people, who were taking shelter from the rains at a gas station, ended up being killed in a huge fire that broke out.

Arrival into Abidjan was less painful than I thought. I knew arriving in Abidjan was going to test my GCSE French to the full and I was pretty sure there was little need for directions to the library or endless conversations asking people the time. However, I was able to pick up a VISA on arrival and although I queued twice to work this out, I got through.  The airport was very clean and well managed and apart from the frosty reception when I didn’t have the VISA it was clear Cote D’Ivoire was very organised.  The guys who processed my VISA even had time to have a iggle at my passport photo – which was a nice touch.

We were taken in an hotel car and I was bundled together with a gentleman who was developing road infrastructure and a Moroccan who worked for EMC (the data tech company). I learned two interesting facts – firstly the African Development Bank had just moved their whole organisation from Tunis to Abidjan – a move of 3000 people (this is a return from troubled times) and secondly, that the Moroccan’s are investing heavily in Abidjan. In fact, as you approach the Sofitel hotel you can see a huge amount of river dredging as they are building a new marina area as well as other things. As we pulled into the hotel we had witness of the King of Morocco’s entourage which was in town promoting their partnerships. All in all, in the first few hours of entering the country, there was a distinct feeling that Abidjan was on the up.

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The Sofitel is a great facility – one side of the hotel (the Accor hotel) needs a facelift in places and on the other the Sofitel – separated by a long walkway.  Here you could also find the conferencing space which was being used by a large media event.   I was impressed as it was a massive space and very theatrical.

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I was presented with a two bed apartment at the Sofitel which was very comfortable – a good product for long stay business customers.

I was told I’d have no meetings for the rest of the day – so I decided to go for a swim in what has to be one of the largest swimming pools I’ve ever seen.

IMG_3007 A small island!

My first meeting the next morning was to view the new Azalai hotel in the city. Fully suited, as is the case, I was dropped off at the side of the road and told to follow a gentleman (who spoke no English) into the construction. After doing my best to look like I knew what I was doing and tip toeing my away around the ankle deep puddles I was ushered into the basement of the building. At this stage I was covered in mud, looking somewhat out of place in the construction and at a loss how to communicate.

I was given a yellow bib, a hard hat and ushered into a room in the basement.  As the door swung open 30 pairs of eyes turned in my direction.  It seemed I had managed to be invited to a meeting of the construction team and was considered an essential cog of this development briefing.  I was instructed to sit down and, being in no position to argue, did so and tried to look important as we went through the schedule and notes…  It wasn’t until 10 minutes passed before my host must have realised he’d lost me and came to save me from my embarrassment.

FullSizeRender59 Up, up and away in construction lift

FullSizeRender10 Taking shape – the new Azalai

FullSizeRender54 View over the city

After viewing the new hotel we moved onto some meetings with the Ministry of Tourism. I arrived with dirtied suit and looking somewhat flustered from the odd experience at the construction site but we managed to get our meeting underway without too much fuss.

The Minister and his team were hugely generous with their time – spending the full afternoon with me.  In fact, in one of the meetings before visiting the Minister himself, it must have got a bit too much for one of the group as we heard the muffled snores before a dig in his ribs woke him from his slumber.

My final meeting was with the CEPICI – the Investment Agency for Cote D’Ivoire. In a very tight lift we scaled 20 floors where our meeting took us to the back of their offices with wonderful views of the city. The passion to be part of what we had to offer was palpable and I came away very excited about the prospect of doing more in a this great country.

This just left me time to go back to the hotel and pack.  Unknown to me but this is where the real adventure began.  I actually had some time before my flight so I checked out and waited in the bar area to leave.  I didn’t want to give it too much time to leave because another storm seemed to be brewing and there was a lot of lightning about. However, I left 3 hours before even so.  Plenty of time – or so I hought.

I took the hotel transfer bus with 4 other guests only to find the first major highway was blocked.  No matter, with some interesting reversing down the road we were free and soon were moving alongside this stationary traffic.

However, this was a false dawn and this was not the end of our traffic woes.  The rain by this point was pouring down and as we approached a small town there seemed to be some congestion. Rather than allowing this to filter through local drivers obviously feel the best way to combat slowing traffic is to overtake, undertake or generally try and find alternative routes like the pavement.  This works to a point I’d argue and sure enough with traffic heading towards us and from either direction doing all the same we met gridlock…

One hour later we hadn’t moved and guests in our bus started to get nervous about catching their flights.  I on the other hand, was starting to feel the effects of two beers before I got on the bus… Suited, albeit, with muddy legs, running across the highway, dodging motor cycles and getting some strange looks from the locals I had to sneak down an alley way to relieve myself. What I didn’t realise was that this was actually the entrance to some flats above so I was constantly passed by people including mothers and their children.  After lots of apologies and more embarrassment I got back in the car where one of the passengers had made his decision. He’d pull over a bike and offer some cash for a ride. He didn’t have much luggage so he flagged down the bike. He was, however, almost 20 stone as an estimate so, as he positioned himself on the back of the bike I could only hope he’d make it alive…

Another 30 minutes passed, still no movement, and we were stuck 10km out.  I estimated that at a fast walk I could make the airport in time now so made the decision to bail out of the bus and walk.  I travel light in Africa so only take hand luggage so it doubled up as a pretty good makeshift umbrella.

As you can imagine the pavements were a swamp and, as you weaved your way in and out of the stationary traffic, locals poked their heads out of the car wishing you “bon voyage.”  By now many other frustrated travelers joined the long walk – all hauling our bags.  We walked for around 1km  before we met a clear roadd as the stationary traffic snaked off to the left. Here there was mayhem – cars rushing by, what seemed like hundreds of people trying to flag them down. However, I was lucky that after a few minutes I flagged a cab down and grabbed the nearest two travellers with bags and we jumped in.

We were off – and, although we turned up at the airport, dishevelled and wet through we made it to the lounge for a well-deserved beer. Here I met  the intrepid motorcyclist who was miraculously still alive – it all made for a good yarn as we all shared a beer before boarding.

Ghana June 2015

This was my first visit to the West of Africa and after all the usual red tape needed to obtain a VISA I was on my way.  Connectivity across Africa is a big issue and pricing to Ghana typified this with British Airways charging an outrageous £2500 for a direct economy class ticket to Accra.

Stepping off the plane the passengers were greeted by a swarm of large flying insects. They looked like slimmed down versions of dragon flies and they provided a bizarre, unworldly welcoming party.  In June Ghana was still in a cautious state of monitoring Ebola and, as we went through the customary immigration checks, we were kept in further chaotic queues whilst they monitored temperature.  I think the flying insects, long journey and long waits started to take their toll as two rows in front of me erupted an almighty row.

The row started because an Indian gentleman was being shepherded through to the front of the queue.  The local Ghanaian crowd took umbrage claiming prejudice of the system against their own people.  The conflict ended up with a number of members of the queue exchanging “f-yous” with one of the administrators on the desk.

Although this made for a slightly entertaining 10 minute distraction in what was a long and laborious 2 hour immigration process it also provided a unique insight into the deeper frustrations of the local people at their treatment and subsequent relationship with officials.

Welcome to Ghana!

FullSizeRender A lady carrying a teddy bear in her Hijab through immigration – obviously…

I do like to use my time through immigration to get a sense for who is visiting a country and why.  People tend to open up and it turned out there was interesting mix of a development manager from Samsung, a girl who was starting an internship with one of the banks and a young American chap coming to teach math (that’s maths to us) at a local school.   However, interesting these people were, 2 hours is still 2 hours so I thought (as the “local channel” was clear) I’d also try my hand at a touch of bribing officials.  This was my first attempt at fluttering a $20 bill and winking and nudging to a uniformed guard.  It only occurred to me after I’d be doing this for a minute or two as to what it could be misconstrued as so I stopped and decided I would better just to wait in future.

When I booked my hotel I had picked the Labadi Beach hotel as a bit of a treat.  It is rare I get chance to spend time in hotels outside of the city and in non-international brands such as Legacy Resorts and Hotels.  The Kempinski was still in development and, apart from the Moevenpick (which dominated the business market in Accra or the the Holiday Inn) there wasn’t a great deal of choice.  My first impressions of Labadi Beach was that it was a fun hotel which, I found out,  was originally an InterContinental before being rebranded.  Its ambiance remained colonial with lots of dark wood beams and panels around the hotel, leather seating and the whirring of ceiling fans to cool the main lobby areas.  It had lovely gardens that led down to the beach area.  I was warned, however, not to be tempted to have a little dip as I’d be most likely getting a mouthful of something nasty as the sea was a full of sewage and filthy.  I stuck with the pool….!

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Inside and out of the Labadi Beach Hotel

Suitably refreshed after my swim my guide and local partner, Edmund Asamoah, arrived at the hotel to take me out to a few meetings. A local developer, who attended our conference in 2012, he was keen to get me to the city to entice me to spread the word locally of the good work we do.    Ever since he had a successful time at the conference he has been promoting what we do locally and this visit was to help evangelise what we were doing and how we could help the local industry. Our first stop was to the Moevenpick to view the conference space and then host the meeting.

The conference space was a decent size and the hotel was immaculately maintained.  The main purpose for my visit however, other than checking out the facility, was to host a meeting for around 30 industry locals who wanted to learn more about what our business does. We had set a meeting for 2.30pm in expectation for 3pm start but, barring a few people arriving on time, we only got going at 3.30pm. This was actually good thing because it took almost 2 hours to link my computer to the projector and still to this day my computer has a completely new set up!

Technical issues aside it turned out to be a passionate meeting.  This group clearly felt that the industry was not getting support from the Government to enable investment.  Energy was hugely expensive and, with the Government only allowing 12 hours of energy  for every 48 hours, there was a massive deficiency.  Lack of incentives and promotion led me to believe Ghana, as good as it looked, was not competing hard enough.

My visits were hampered by a huge storm which showed no sign of abating.  This made it difficult to visit the new Kempinski development as it was deemed too dangerous. I had little time so we took the risk at the end of the day and made use of the morning viewing the conference space at the Labadi where I tried to keep up with Adrian Landrey, the GM, as he gave me a tour of the hotel.  A six foot something South African striding purposefully across the corridors of the hotel was quite hard for a little legged chap like me to keep up with.

On the way to the Kempinski site we popped into see Bruce Potter the GM of the Holiday Inn. A fast talking and pithy Scotsman who had been a resident in Accra for 8 years.  He was well connected and fairly long in the tooth as well. He set Edmund and I up with a meeting with GHATOF (Ghana Tourism Federation) and treated us to a lovely buffet lunch. In the afternoon we visited the UKTI offices and popped into one of the new malls in Accra. Edmund’s family had built the first mall in Accra and now, in only a short time, there was already 4.  The quality of the mall was excellent – mainly filled with mainly South African brands which I wasn’t familiar with but you could easily see the rise in retail.  Packed full of white goods, electronics, clothes stores and obligatory low cost supermarket.

Finally, in the early evening, we got chance to see the Kempinski facility. I believe this will be a fantastic property and perfect for the city – alongside the hotel was going to be a high end retail outlet before the whole area will be developed. The conference facilities were very good and will easily compete with what is in the city already.

After driving around the city on what felt like a wild goose chase in the dark we eventually stumbled on the GHATOF (Ghana Tourism Federation) offices. I was told that roads aren’t always named so it made it difficult to find the offices which were tucked away in some back streets.  The building was unusual in that, from the outside, it looked more like a residential block.  At the time the situation felt quite surreal especially as we’d be driving around the city for around an hour trying to find these offices but we had a productive meeting.

I left Ghana hoping that AHIF would fit the ambitions of the market going forward. After an exhausting day we moved on late in the evening to a fantastic local restaurant in the city where, it seemed, my host knew everyone in it.

Egypt February 2015

First glimpse of the Nile
First glimpse of the Nile

As part of our work in Africa we were lucky enough to host a briefing session in Cairo.  I’d never been to Egypt before but my curiosity was aroused when I watched the recent “Walking the Nile” TV program.  I hadn’t realised the extent that tourism had been impacted by the two uprisings in Egypt but at a lecture, given by Levison Wood (the man who did the walking in the named program) last week, he underlined the impact the estimated 400,000 lost jobs in tourism has had.  One of his slides showed a cruise liner that, before the problems, used to take many tourists up and down the Nile.  Now, beached and rotting, it served as a symbolic representation of the state of the industry and, perhaps, a modern monument to those jobs that have been lost.
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Africa – Ethiopia and Rwanda

My objectives this trip, when not sat in an airline lounge, taxi or airplane was visit Ethiopia to officially announce the launch of our conference to the media and then head off to Kigali to see if how developments in Rwanda were going for the new Radisson Blu Hotel & Convention Centre and the Kigali Marriott Hotel properties. Both of which are planning to open their doors for 2016.

Two very different countries and cultures with two very different experiences…

The comparative sky lines – the first from the Sheraton overlooking Addis and the second from the Marriott in Kigali
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Introductions

Over the past 5 years, with my current business role, I have been lucky enough to have been travelling to some pretty spectacular places in the world.  I have met some wonderful people and been part of some pretty extraordinary adventures.

Dancing in Addis Ababa

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